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Giorgio Armani Spring 2027: Metamorphosis and Precedent
Giorgio Armani spring 2027 is Silvana Armani's quiet rearrangement of her uncle's house, with more than half the looks trousers or jumpsuits. I go through the jackets, from herringbone jersey to reversible shearling.
Mens Designer Brands: Slowear, N.Peal, NN07 and Other Labels With a Point of View
These menswear labels have a clear point of view and a founder you can name, from Slowear and N.Peal to NN07. I sort the picks into jackets, knitwear, shirts, trousers and a few accessories.
Cult Gaia Kadia Dress and the Spring 2027 Behesht Collection
The Cult Gaia Kadia dress is a black knit from Behesht, Jasmin Larian Hekmat's Spring 2027 collection. I walk through the collection, which she built around grief and celebration, with bags, dresses, skirts and tops.
Courrèges Spring 2027: What the Softer Side Could Be
Drew Henry makes his Courrèges debut just weeks into the job, with undone belts, odd hats and chalky pastels. Trousers appear in most looks, and the mood is warmer than the house is used to.
Giorgio Armani Spring 2027: Metamorphosis and Precedent
Giorgio Armani spring 2027 is Silvana Armani's quiet rearrangement of her uncle's house, with more than half the looks trousers or jumpsuits. I go through the jackets, from herringbone jersey to reversible shearling.
Mens Designer Brands: Slowear, N.Peal, NN07 and Other Labels With a Point of View
These menswear labels have a clear point of view and a founder you can name, from Slowear and N.Peal to NN07. I sort the picks into jackets, knitwear, shirts, trousers and a few accessories.
Cult Gaia Kadia Dress and the Spring 2027 Behesht Collection
The Cult Gaia Kadia dress is a black knit from Behesht, Jasmin Larian Hekmat's Spring 2027 collection. I walk through the collection, which she built around grief and celebration, with bags, dresses, skirts and tops.
Courrèges Spring 2027: What the Softer Side Could Be
Drew Henry makes his Courrèges debut just weeks into the job, with undone belts, odd hats and chalky pastels. Trousers appear in most looks, and the mood is warmer than the house is used to.
Designers
Ulla Johnson Spring 2027: Pastels, Sheers and Poplin
Ulla Johnson staged her spring show under the Brooklyn Bridge overpass and left something behind that outlasts fifteen minutes. The clothes are pastel, hand-painted and sheer, and about a third of the looks carry a floral.
Tory Burch Spring 2027: I Like a Little Humor
Tory Burch built her spring collection around opulent femininity with a utilitarian twist, and a good dose of humor. Bags appeared in most looks, and the surfaces were worked to the last bead.
Sportmax Spring 2027: Heat-Wave Dressing
Sportmax answered rising temperatures by cutting the arms off outerwear and layering barely-there organza. Bags appeared in most looks, many of them in a punchy orange, and the whole show felt breezy.
Proenza Schouler Spring 2027: Clothes Make Room for the Woman
Rachel Scott's second runway collection for Proenza Schouler feels looser, freer and far more sure of itself. Bags appeared in more than half the looks, led by a reworked PS1.
Missoni Spring 2027: Getting Dressed Without Overthinking It
Alberto Caliri builds a Missoni collection about movement rather than destination, inspired by how Rosita Missoni traveled. A hat topped most looks, and the geometry loosened, frayed and glinted.
Marc Jacobs SS27: 31 Looks in Four Minutes, No Finale
Marc Jacobs SS27 was 31 looks in four minutes, with no finale and almost no pants. Colored tights were on almost every look, and I went through the bags, jackets and cardigans.
Magda Butrym Spring 2027: Airiness and Self-Possession
Magda Butrym Spring 2027 is built around the apron and her grandmother's kitchen, made to celebrate her new SoHo store. I go through the jackets, tops, tights and shoes that carry the lightness.
Khaite Spring 2027: A Softer Vision Emerged
Catherine Holstein swapped subtraction for addition at Khaite this season, and the result is a romantic, hazy collection built on lace and horsehair ruffles. More than a third of the looks were tied at the waist.
Fendi Spring 2027: Fashion Is Part of Our Language
Fendi Spring 2027 by Maria Grazia Chiuri was staged inside a box of mirrors, and almost half the looks were all black. I break it down look by look, with about half carrying a bag.
Etro Spring 2027: Etro with the Volume Turned Down
Etro Spring 2027 is called Halo, an aura of paisleys and fabrics floating around the woman, with maxi lengths in nearly half the looks. I go through the dresses, the tailoring that keeps it honest, and the jackets.
Erdem Spring 2027: It Was Always About a Duality
Erdem Spring 2027 is a love letter to Barbette, the trapeze performer who dazzled audiences in the 1920s and 1930s. I go through the dresses, shirts and blouses, and bags.
Emporio Armani Spring 2027: Traces of Time
Emporio Armani Spring 2027 was a presentation that swept from white to black through green, gray and greige, with trousers in nearly every look. I go through the trousers, the jackets and the quiet way the chapter closes.
Carolina Herrera Spring 2027: Hailing a Cab on Park Avenue
Carolina Herrera Spring 2027 was Wes Gordon's tribute to the founder's signatures for the house's 45th anniversary. Bags appeared in nearly half the looks, and I sorted the dresses and the retold white shirt into things to shop.
Brunello Cucinelli Spring 2027: Making Virtuosity Disappear
Brunello Cucinelli's Spring 2027 collection hides serious technique behind clothes that look like they fell into place. Raffia, crochet and denim get the careful treatment, and about half the looks carry a bag.
Brandon Maxwell Spring 2027: The Word Honest Is What Comes to Mind
Brandon Maxwell returned to the runway after a season away with a collection of black, white, red, khaki, and gray, and not a single print. Trousers and belts showed up in more than half the looks.
Bottega Veneta Spring 2027: De-Robing Into Spring
Louise Trotter's third Bottega Veneta show was about taking layers off as winter turns to spring. Three in four looks carried a bag, and the coats came first.
Dior Spring 2027: Chiffon Reworks the Bar Jacket
Jonathan Anderson's Dior made the Bar jacket and the circle skirt almost transparent for a hotter world. Nearly every look carried a bag, which says a lot about where the house is headed.
The Row Spring 2027: American Perfectionism at Its Best
The Row Spring 2027 paired antique linens and Victorian lace with the most immaculately cut trousers in fashion. Trousers appear in most looks, and I go through the pants, coats, jackets and bags from the collection.
Ferragamo Spring 2027: The Joy of Photography or the Joy of Loving
Ferragamo Spring 2027 starts from the 1947 Invisible Sandal and puts a belt at the waist in most looks. I go through the belts, the bags that follow the waist and the shoes with a ghost of the original.
Diesel Spring 2027: Going Out with a Bang
Diesel Spring 2027 was Glenn Martens' last collection after six years at the house, with more than a third of the looks in denim. I go through the peeling, shredding and coated denim, from bootcut jeans to jackets half torn from the body.