Designers

Joseph Spring 2027: There's No Excess Baggage

Mario Arena found the language of Joseph in a book about a converted chocolate warehouse and built a lighter, easygoing spring collection around it. Trousers and bags appeared in more than half the looks, and nothing felt weighed down.

Balmain Spring 2027: Mankind Was Not Inventing Shapes

Antonin Tron sends Balmain into the American desert with a nod to Foucault and a stone collector's eye for natural form. Sunglasses appear in the large majority of looks, and the clothes are sexy, loose and a little trippy.

Saint Laurent Spring 2027: An Evening Should Glow

Saint Laurent Spring 2027 was Anthony Vaccarello's goodbye, with gold on almost every look, a black finale and not a single bag. I go through the dresses, jackets and coats, and the earrings and heels.

Michael Kors Spring 2027: A Mod, Mod World

Michael Kors showed a modernist collection in the MoMA Sculpture Garden, with zig-zag hems, Calder and Matisse references and white go-go boots. The accessories did a lot of the talking.

Acne Studios Spring 2027: Denim Hystoria

Acne Studios Spring 2027 set the label's first jeans against historic dress, with puffed skirts over denim, cameo brooches and floral boots. I go through the skirts, dresses, jeans, florals and bags from the collection.

Stella McCartney Spring 2027: Daryl Hannah in Splash

Stella McCartney showed her greatest hits in the rain at the British Ambassador's residence in Paris, with loose tailoring, coral-like knits and a denim jacket over basketball shorts. The pastel pieces bring a few mermaid notes.

Mulberry Spring 2027: Really Clean, Modern Aesthetic

Mulberry Spring 2027 was Christopher Kane's debut as creative director, built on the Bayswater flap and carried in more than half the looks. I go through the shoulder bags, top handles, belts and scarves.

Jacquemus Spring 2027: Le Bonheur at a Corsican Lighthouse

Jacquemus Spring 2027, called Le Bonheur, took 155 guests to a Corsican lighthouse for a show about happiness. I go through the sneakers, the day by the sea and the dresses and tops.

7 For All Mankind Spring 2027: The Attitude Is Everything

7 For All Mankind Spring 2027 is Nicola Brognano's indie sleaze take, with denim at the center and skinny scarves in most looks. I go through the jeans and jackets and the attitude that ties the show together.

Burberry Spring 2027: I Like When Things Don't Feel Perfect

Burberry Spring 2027 is a joint collection by Daniel Lee and Celia Birtwell, with her florals scattered across the check. I went through the boots, flats and sandals.

Ralph Lauren Spring 2027: Touched by the Hand

Ralph Lauren Spring 2027 mixed brocade with cargo pants, a 1967 tie with faded jeans and hand-painted silks that look sun-bleached. Half the looks were built on trousers, and I go through the dresses and jackets too.

Staud Spring 2027: It Lives in the Space Between

Staud Spring 2027 is built around the slash, with Sarah Staudinger pairing up and down, east and west, then and now. Bags appeared in most looks and evening clothes were worn with easy shoes, and I go through the dresses, bags and shoes.

Jenny Packham Spring 2027: Disco Couture

Jenny Packham followed her icy resort story with volume two of Disco Couture, designing gowns for the moment the room loosens up and the dancing starts. Sequins or beading covered about half the looks.

Simone Rocha Spring 2027: Very Touched and Pushed

Simone Rocha returned to the Old Bailey with a stripped-back collection built around a rediscovered Caravaggio. Rose-furled necklines show up in about a third of the looks, and every silhouette feels bent and sculpted by hand.

Tod's Spring 2027: Formal Becomes Less Formal

Tod's Spring 2027 is Matteo Tamburini's sportier, looser take on the house, with a bag in more than half the looks. I go through the bags, the Gommino and the loafers.

The Attico Spring 2027: A Wardrobe of Personalities

The Attico Spring 2027 marks ten years of the label, with a show staged on beds in a dark tunnel and a procession of alter egos. I go through the shoes and the dresses that came out of it.

Prada Spring 2027: Skirts for People Who Think a Lot About Their Skirts

Prada Spring 2027 gave the whole collection to the skirt, with nine in ten looks wearing one. I go through how Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons built the skirts and what went on top.

Coach Spring 2027: A Party, an Anniversary

Coach Spring 2027 marked Stuart Vevers's 85th year with rumpled suits, inside-out trench coats and confetti-covered bags. I go through the long pendant necklaces nearly every look wore and the clothes around them.

Jil Sander Spring 2027: A Bit Wrong in a Way

Jil Sander spring 2027 is Simone Bellotti's answer to how minimalism survives when everyone has copied it, with a note of imprecision. I go through the knitwear and the shoes with a little attitude.

Loro Piana Spring 2027: A Solution for Natural Authority

Loro Piana Spring 2027 turned its Milan presentation into a self-help library, with clothes offered as answers to everyday problems. I go through the knitwear, trousers and shoes, since every look wore a hat.

Lemaire Spring 2027: Things That Don't Shout

Lemaire Spring 2027 was a quiet show in a concrete hall at the Opera Bastille, staged with a simulated rainstorm. I go through the bags that turned up in most looks, from the Fortune Croissant Mini to the Gear Small.

Blumarine Spring 2027: She Goes to California, Dates a Surfer

Blumarine spring 2027 is David Koma's California collection, with tulle and ruffles in more than a third of the looks. I walk through the gowns, the minidresses and the sharper jeans and trousers.

Tom Ford Spring 2027: Sexual, Louche, a Little Bit Dangerous

Tom Ford Spring 2027 was Haider Ackermann's show, played in near darkness behind glass, with sharp pinstripes, black leather and red cut-out gowns. I go through the sunglasses, the clothes underneath the provocation, and the pumps and loafers.

Simkhai Spring 2027: I Just Wanted to Try New Things

Simkhai spring 2027 is leather, knits and a lot of fringe, the opposite of what spring usually looks like. I go through the gowns, dresses, tops and skirts, and where the fringe shows up.