The Long Sleeve Dress For Weather That Can't Decide

The Long Sleeve Dress For Weather That Can't Decide

One layer, no jacket math required.

The long sleeve dress covers the arms without hiding the shape, which is why it works on days when the morning and the afternoon disagree. Nearly 250 dresses sorted by how much the sleeve is doing, then by fabric and neckline, then by knit, from Diane von Furstenberg's wrap descendants to Aqua's satin maxi, Ramy Brook crochet and Theory's ribbed merino.

A dress that covers your arms

In 1974 Diane von Furstenberg advertised her jersey wrap dress in Women's Wear Daily with the line "Feel like a woman, wear a dress!" and by 1976 she had sold a million of them. That dress had long sleeves, and I think it is the reason the long sleeve dress still feels like the most grown up thing you can put on in the morning. It covers your arms, it keeps its shape, and you do not have to plan a top and a bottom.

 

This first group is about how much the sleeve is doing. Donna Karan's Metallic Crinkle Knit faux wrap maxi is the direct descendant of that 1974 idea. Aqua's Satin Long Sleeve Maxi Gown is the evening one, all sheen and length. Norma Kamali's Turtleneck dress and WAYF's ruched Selene are close fitting and simple, and Spanx's AirEssentials polo dress is the one I would live in on a travel day. Sonia Rykiel's Domino has an embellished collar, which is the only decoration it needs. The two lace dresses, Aqua's and Bardot's Remy mini, are for evenings, and FARM Rio's mini brings print. French Connection's Echo crepe mini and the two AFRM dresses, the Jetta and the Didi maxi, are the easy everyday options.

 

My test: reach both arms forward as if you were holding a steering wheel. A good long sleeve does not pull across the back or ride up past the wrist.

 

What I would skip: a fitted long sleeve in a thin knit on a really warm day. It will cling where you do not want it to.

Six long sleeve dresses, numbered 1 to 6

Long sleeves from day to evening

Fabric and neckline set the mood

Once the sleeve is settled, fabric and neckline decide the mood. This second group is where texture does the talking.

 

Ramy Brook's Carina crochet dress is the most textured, and Helmut Lang's Draped long sleeve dress is the opposite, a fluid drape with almost no detail. Solid & Striped's Dora has an ombré fade, and Aqua's Foil Crinkle V-neck brings shine. Mother of All's Federica and Veronica Beard's Charissa are the polished daytime pair, and the two Diane von Furstenberg dresses, the Sheska and the Emilia, bring the conversation back to where it started. The newer additions widen it: Kate Barton's Belted A Line in burgundy, Simkhai's Zelda in a textured knit with flared cuffs, French Connection's Azra in black twill with a defined waist, and Sea's Julie in a patterned burnout.

 

A pairing tip: a high neckline and a long sleeve together already make a strong shape, so keep jewellery to small earrings and let the fabric show. With a V-neck, a long pendant works well.

 

What I would skip: a heavy coat over a textured knit like the Carina or the Zelda. The coat flattens the texture you chose the dress for. A trench or a cropped jacket keeps it visible.

Texture, drape and neckline

Knit long sleeves for the cold end of the season

Wool knits were keeping people warm long before anyone called them a trend, and the long sleeve sweater dress is the version of this dress that does the job of a layer on its own. This third group is all knit, sorted roughly from plain to playful.

 

Karen Kane's Seamless Midi Sweater Dress in brown and Bardot's Hattie Knit Midi in burgundy are the easy ones, fitted through the body with a skirt that moves. Theory's Regal Merino Wool Ribbed Maxi is the investment of the group, a long rib in a warm ochre that I would wear with boots and nothing else. Hobbs London's Nessa and Lauren Ralph Lauren's Tie Front Turtleneck Dress are the office pair, and the tie on the Lauren gives you a waist without a belt. Reformation's Vivien and Maje's Ribbed Mini Skater are the short ones, and Whistles' Annie Sparkle Knit Dress has a fleck of shine for dinner.

 

My test for a knit: pinch the fabric at the hip and let go. If it springs back, it will keep its shape after a day of sitting. If it stays stretched, it will bag by the afternoon.

 

What I would skip: a ribbed knit a size too small. Rib shows every line underneath, so choose the size that skims.

Sweater and knit dresses

Buy the one you would wear weekly

The long sleeve dress is the one I reach for in October and again in March, when the morning is cold and the afternoon is not. It works because it is a whole outfit with built in coverage, the same reason the wrap dress took off fifty years ago.

 

If I were buying one, I would choose by how often I would wear it rather than by the occasion. Diane von Furstenberg's Emilia and French Connection's Azra are plain enough to wear every week with boots or flats. If I wanted one with a bit more presence, Sonia Rykiel's Domino puts all its detail in one collar, and Simkhai's Zelda gives you texture without fuss. For the coldest weeks, Theory's ribbed merino maxi is the one I would pick.

 

Whatever you pick, buy the one you would still want on a perfectly predictable day. The weather is just the excuse. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Long Sleeve Mini Dress and How to Wear a Silk Dress in Cold Weather.