L'Academie Dresses: The Pieces to Know

I like a brand story with a little back-room energy, and L'Academie has one. It came out of Alliance Apparel, the Los Angeles brand house Mitch Moseley and Raissa Gerona built around a growing set of labels. The first collection was elegant blouses and dresses, and it grew from there.

The label entered a new chapter in February 2024 when Marianna Hewitt, the Summer Fridays cofounder, became creative director. She shapes everything from concept and trend direction to fabric, color, fittings and campaign imagery, and the refreshed collection leans Parisian, for work days and weekends alike. That is the balance I see here: dresses with a little ceremony, blouses that hold their own against tailored bottoms, and knits to soften the outline. A French mood, no full costume change required. I went deeper on a related idea in Line & Dot Dresses: The Pieces to Know. I went deeper on a related idea in AREA Tops & Dresses: The Best Pieces Right Now.

The Kayden Maxi Dress is the one I would send to a wedding: sheer lace, a gently flounced hem and a slip underneath. The Zoe Mini Dress is the weekday end of the wardrobe, polished and a little tailored. For something in between, the Harmi Midi Dress feels airy and quietly grown-up.

The Aurelie Mini Dress, The Meadow Mini Dress, Delphine Mini Dress, Adalynn Mini Dress and Ilana Mini Dress keep things short and light, while the Reyes Maxi Knit Dress, Adira Midi Dress, Hallie Maxi Dress and Cadee Cable Dress bring more length and texture. Picture her at a gallery lunch in the Zoe, then adding a low heel when the reservation moves to dinner. Decide about the Kayden's slip before choosing what goes underneath, since the lace is sheer.

The Katy Blouse and the Rew Top play with softness in two different ways. The Katy is glossy, striped and structured enough to sit neatly over trousers, and I would let it carry the print while keeping the bottom half plain. The ivory Rew Top goes semi-sheer with a cowl neck, which I would wear over a tonal camisole, or on purpose after dark.

The Arden Top, Lim Top, Alina Blouse, Tillie Top, Kayden Top and Noire Top are the supporting cast, and I could see most of them with a simple pair of tailored trousers. In my fashion dreams, the Katy's stripes do all the talking.

The Nomiko Short is crisp ivory crepe with pleats, a sharp counterpoint to the openwork Fallon Midi Skirt. I would wear the Fallon over a slip rather than expect it to be opaque by itself. The Azaria Sweater is the cool-weather answer, charcoal and cropped, and the Nalo Cardigan sits next to it for layering.

The Viv Knit Hot Short, Noire Short, Camilla Skirt and Vivienne Midi Skirt round out the separates. My formula is simple: a light base under the sweater, a plain tank under the skirt. In my fashion dreams, the shorts are the clean base for a blouse that needs the attention.

I like that L'Academie has room for more than one version of dressed up. A lace maxi can hold a wedding, a button-front mini can take an ordinary Saturday, and the crisp separates are what I would reach for when I want some structure. Hewitt's Parisian note is there, but it never swallows the quieter, polished side of the label. If I were building a small L'Academie wardrobe, I would start with the silhouette I would wear twice this month, then add one texture that changes the mood. Although I suspect the lace maxi would get there first.